Fish & Shellfish

Serves 4

• 4 ancho chiles or 8 guajillo chiles, stemmed, seeded and torn into flat pieces
• 1 8-ounce can tomato sauce
• 2 garlic cloves, peeled
• 3 tablespoons soy sauce
• 3 tablespoons Worcestershire
• Salt
• 1 3-pound fish (round fish like snapper, grouper or striped bass work really well)—ask to have it filleted, but keep the bones
• Oil for brushing or spraying the basket and fish
• 12 warm corn tortillas
• 1 medium red onion, thinly sliced, for serving
• 2 limes, cut into wedges, for serving
• Chinese toasted chiles in oil (or your favorite salsa or hot sauce), for serving (optional)

1. In a dry skillet over medium heat, toast the chile pieces a few at a time, pressing them firmly against the hot surface with a metal spatula until they are aromatic, about 10 seconds per side.  In a bowl, rehydrate the chiles for 20 minutes in hot tap water to cover; place a plate on top to keep them submerged. 
2. Use a pair of tongs to transfer the rehydrated chiles to a food processor or blender.  Add ½ cup of the soaking liquid, along with the tomato sauce, garlic, soy and Worcestershire.  Blend to a smooth puree.  Press through a medium-mesh sieve into a bowl.  Taste and season highly with salt, usually about 2 teaspoons.
3. Cut ½-inch-deep diagonal slashes along the flesh side of the fish (to promote even cooking and aide in marinade penetration).  Sprinkle with both sides with salt.  Spread or brush about 3 tablespoons of the marinade over both sides of the fish—spread some on the bones as well. You’ll probably have marinade leftover for another round of fish.  (It’ll keep for a couple of weeks in the refrigerator.)
4. Turn on a gas grill to medium or light a charcoal fire and let it burn to until the coals are covered with white ash. Lay a grill basket over the fire.  When quite hot, brush or spray the basket generously with oil.  Spray or lightly brush the fish with oil, then lay the oiled-side down on the basket; spray or brush the other side. Close the basket and cook lay over the fire.  Cook, turning every 3 or 4 minutes, until the fish is cooked through but still juicy—a 3-pound snapper typically takes 10 to 15minutes. 
5. Gently and carefully open the basket and remove the fish to a platter.  Serve with warm tortillas, red onion, lime and toasted chiles for making very tasty soft tacos.